Special Issue

Contents

CELEBRATING 30 YEARS AT AUREOLE
By Chef Charlie Palmer
EXECUTIVE CHEF TIME LINE
Aureole’s Alumni Chef
LONDON CALLING
Chef Laurent Tourondel Opens at the Café Royal Hotel
LONDON FOOD GUIDE
Favorite Spots from Chef Laurent Tourondel
DECISIONS, DECISIONS
The Choices Winemakers Have Throughout The Year
HARVEST PARTIES
How To Throw the Perfect Harvest Celebration
LOBSTER ROLL RECIPE
Step-by-step with Chef Barbara Lynch
WHAT’S HAPPENING
Events at All Barbara Lynch Restaurants
COMMUNITY INSIDER GUIDE
What to Do and Where in Boston this Fall

I’m not a guy who spends much time thinking about the past. There’s so much adventure and opportunity in the world, I tend to focus on what’s next. However, in preparing for the 30th anniversary of my landmark restaurant, Aureole, I’ve been looking in the rearview mirror at our awesome three-decade run in the competitive food culture of New York City. I feel simultaneously proud of what we’ve achieved and humbled by the many loyal customers who supported us in the past—and continue to help us today—by making Aureole their regular spot as well as the setting for special occasions in their lives.

However, it’s impossible to think about what we’ve accomplished at Aureole without also reflecting on the history of the American food revolution, which has paralleled the span of my career.

I carried the idea of Aureole around with me as a student at the Culinary Institute of America, through my culinary experiences in France, as well as during my time as a fledgling cook in New York’s legendary French restaurants. I worked as butcher and charcuterie maker for Chef Jean-Jacques Rachou at La Côte Basque, an institution for classical French cuisine on East 55th Street. I honed my pastry skills at La Petite Marmite, and I hustled on the line at Le Chantilly and Lutèce, alongside other young cooks like Daniel Boulud and David Bouley. (Those restaurants, now gone, were training grounds for the city’s haute cuisine–era maîtres d’hôtel and chefs.)

However, the concept came into focus when I was 23 and had the opportunity to become chef at the River Café, in the then desolate Brooklyn neighborhood of Dumbo. Although that restaurant is now more than 40 years old, it has featured only six chefs, which tells you something about its staying power.

iver Café is where I encountered the earliest examples of what would become the biggest influences in my career. It was one of the first major restaurants to support the American regional food movement, and also one of the first to promote California varietal wines. Although local sourcing is now commonplace, at that time it was groundbreaking for chefs to work directly with small suppliers and growers, as I did, bringing in ingredients like Michigan morels, New Jersey tomatoes, and Hudson Valley quail.

When it came time for me to go out on my own, I was only 27. But as young as I was, I had already experienced two primary culinary influences: the refinement and techniques of classical French cuisine, and the break-the-rules energy of the emerging American regionalized food movement. For me, those two worlds came together on the plate when I developed what has become my signature: progressive American cooking—a style built on rambunctious, intense flavors and unexpected combinations.

I was driven by a sense of discovery to forge a culinary identity of my own. And decades later, I haven’t changed. I still try to pull flavor out of ingredients in the simplest ways, keeping the food as unmasked—as true to itself—as possible. And I still look for ways to create excitement on the plate.

Alumni

The Executive Chefs at

As Chef Palmer himself notes, “Aureole became a ‘mothership’ for Culinary Institute of America students.” The list of cooks and chefs who have worked at Palmer’s flagship restaurant read like a who’s-who of the culinary world.

As a fitting tribute to Aureole, many of these chefs contributed articles in this magazine that speak to contemporary culinary issues at hand.

“Gerry (Hayden) was honored to have been asked to join the opening team of Aureole. He was so very proud to have worked there. He thought of Charlie not only as his mentor, but as his big brother too. He loved and admired him! Aureole was the standard by which Gerry measured fine dining. It informed his sense of style and taught him to appreciate the beauty and elegance of the dining experience.”

—Claudia Fleming, Pastry Chef and Proprietor, The North Fork Table and Inn

“I fell in love with Aureole the moment I walked in that first day. When I got a call the year following my internship there, I was living in London at the time. I didn’t even hesitate. I am so immensely proud and honored to have worked at Aureole. It is such a great institution, and my time spent there—almost a decade—was really special.”

—Marcus Gleadow-Ware, Executive Chef, Greydon House

“I can say 100 percent that the Mina Group would not exist if not for my time spent with Charlie and at Aureole. Charlie was then and has always been my mentor in every crucial business decision I have ever made. He was the first to open my eyes on how to be a chef and run a business at the same time. He has been an amazing mentor for a lot of people, and I believe the food in our country is that much better because of him.”

—Michael Mina, Chef/Owner, Mina Group

“The years that I spent working as the pastry chef at Aureole for Chef Charlie Palmer were instrumental to my career. The opportunity to work with so many amazing chefs, constantly pushing the industry standards, continue to challenge and inspire me.”

—Pierre Poulin, Paris Gourmet, Technical Chef Advisor

“Charlie Palmer and Aureole have been a part of my career from start to finish. I was a line cook at Aureole straight out of college, became Charlie’s executive chef, and consider him my lifelong culinary mentor. That’s tough to beat!”

—Dante Boccuzzi, Chef/Owner, Dante Dining Group

LT Living

It may come as a shock to learn that this French-born chef actually learned to cook in London during the initial stages of his culinary education. The opening of Laurent at Café Royal marks Chef Laurent Tourondel’s return to not only the city but also Hotel Café Royal, the very place in which he worked in his 20s.

Laurent is located on the first floor of the Café Royal Hotel, above an impressive new lobby that features a 17-foot double-height Murano glass chandelier by legendary Italian glassmaker Vistosi. Contemporary Italian architect Piero Lissoni designed the restaurant, which includes an open kitchen, grill, and sushi bar. It’s a convivial space with refined all-day dining.

Booth seating and lighting by Lissoni creates an informal but sophisticated atmosphere.

In line with today’s contemporary lifestyles, the informal lunch and dinner menus are centered on the parrilla grill, a traditional iron barbecue that’s originally from Argentina, allowing the chef to control the heat to ensure perfectly chargrilled meat or fish. Tourondel has long championed easygoing, accessible food, of which this varied and diverse menu is a perfect example.

Traditional breakfast dishes are served with a Laurent twist, with a decidedly lighter lunch menu. Expect to see Laurent’s signature dishes, like the iconic American popover, featured across his menus.

The sushi bar will serve a wide choice of the traditional and the innovative. Highlights include the Kamchatka King Crab Nigiri poached in lime butter, British wasabi, and golden Oscietra caviar.

Dining options include a range of steaks, fish, and seafood from the grill, with an interesting selection of sauces to accompany them.

Expect many gems on the dessert menu, such as the Milk Chocolate Peanut Croquant with banana ice cream, a Red Berry and Hibiscus Crêpe Soufflé, and the Frozen Orange with grapefruit and Campari.

London Calling

Laurent Tourondel’s

London Food Guide

To prep for his London grand opening, Chef Laurent Tourondel spent time researching this historic city that’s now widely recognized as the new gastronomic hub of Europe. Check out these hot spots on your next visit.

Annabel’s

This elegant, private club in Mayfair moved this year to a Georgian mansion house in Berkeley Square with an all-day and all-night experience. annabels.co.uk

The Arts Club

If you crave an all-day menu rife with frog legs, smoked eel, and endless caviar, not to mention a bar and drawing room that hosts some of art, fashion, film, and literature’s most iconic faces, look no further that this members-only social club. theartsclub.co.uk

The Wolseley

An all-day cafe in the grand European tradition complete with afternoon tea. thewolseley.com

Chiltern Firehouse

Contemporary, ingredient-focused cooking with an underlying American accent by Michelin-starred chef Nuno Mendes. chilternfirehouse.com

Sexy Fish

Food focused on Japan—sushi, sashimi, tiradito, tempura, and robata—and a late-night bar stocking the second-largest Japanese whisky collection in the world. sexyfish.com

Scott’s

This London favorite offers a huge selection of market-fresh fish, seafood, and caviar highlighted by an elegant oyster and Champagne bar. scotts-restaurant.com

The Ned

This Soho House hotel features eight restaurants that serve food from around the world. thened.com

Jean-Georges at the Connaught

An eclectic, innovative take on British classics colored by this Michelin-starred chef’s Far East experiences. jean-georges.com/restaurants/england/london/jean-georges-at-the-connaught

Napa

Winemaker Decisions

By Laura Burgess

As summer gives way to fall, activity in Napa Valley vineyards and wineries begins its crescendo toward the fever pitch known as harvest. Trucks overflowing with ripe golden and purple grapes lumber up and down the valley’s two thoroughfares, while juice-stained winemakers, simultaneously sleep-deprived and joyously awake, dash from vineyard to crush pad and back again. Despite the palpable buzz of harvest, a winemaker’s crucial decisions aren’t limited to the magnificent madness that consumes September and October.

Between tending to tasks in vineyards, on crush pads and within barrel rooms, making wine is a 365-day-a-year job. Beginning with pruning vines in February, to choosing just the “ripe” moment to pick, from fermentation temperatures in autumn to barrel aging decisions as the weather cools and rains begin, each choice dictates a wine’s final style. Ranging from austere and earthy on the palate to jammy and fruit-forward, the wines we drink showcase their terroir through the gaze of their winemaker.

“The Cabernet-flavored milkshake was a highly sought-after style for years,” consulting winemaker Celia Welch explained nonchalantly from her perch above Keever Vineyards in Yountville. Gazing across the valley, where tiny tasting rooms interrupted rows of crisscrossing grapevines, her candor was refreshing. It was also surprising in a place known best known for producing bold, plush Cabernet Sauvignons.

“I think some green characters can be good. Things don’t have to smell like blackberry jam all the time,” she went on, explaining that in her opinion spice and earth contribute just as much as fruit flavors to a finished wine.

Many would be as surprised as I was to hear Welch’s thoughts­—Napa’s reputation as the land of Cabernet Sauvignon, and not much else, is far reaching. But despite the valley’s reputation for opulent reds, diversity is perhaps the most prominent feature of this 29-mile strip of land.

From Keever’s hillside estate where I spoke with Welch, the variety was easy to grasp—a checkerboard of reds, greens and browns spread out across the valley. From Carneros to Calistoga, the diversity of grape varieties, soils and winemaker ethos, no two rows of vines or winemaking styles are exactly alike. It’s this diversity which makes Napa Valley wines so compelling to explore.

Harvest Party

The Art of
Throwing a Great

JENNA LAM, JENNA LAM EVENTS

Napa Valley event designer extraordinaire, Jenna Lam, has some helpful hints for harvest party-planners. These simple, thoughtful tips will wow your guests and easily make the night one to remember. Jenna Lam recently worked on the 2018 Auction Napa Valley. You can get more information about her services at jennalamevents.com

Decor

At JLE, we love to incorporate seasonal branches and leaves into our floral arrangements. A few clippings from your backyard in a beautiful vase keeps it elegant and not overdone. Make sure to keep them loose and organic in style.

If you’re not great with styling flowers, add texture to the center of your table with nuts (like acorns, or walnuts in shells), seasonal fruit (like figs or pomegranates) or gourds.

Stick to one saturated color palette. The tendency to mix all the fall colors together can ultimately look a little unsophisticated. We love the look of one rich color in various shades, like burgundy mixed with all beautiful shades of red. If you prefer a contrast, stick with a neutral cloth like a Belgian flax linen and bring in the color through the florals and napkins.

Food For Thought

Adapted from Stir: Mixing It Up in the Italian Tradition

“I like a very classic lobster roll: lobster and mayo on a hot dog bun. I always start with freshly cooked lobster cut into substantially sized yet easy-to-eat pieces. I add a little celery but mince it very finely, as I think a lot of people (including me!) get put off by too much crunch. We serve these lobster rolls at B&G Oysters with fries and house-made coleslaw and pickles.

You can use this same lobster salad recipe to make our signature lobster BLT. Simply toast ciabatta rolls instead of hot dog rolls, and top the salad with a few slices of crispy bacon (preferably Niman Ranch applewood-smoked bacon), and confit tomatoes. Serve the lobster BLT with homemade potato chips.”

—Chef Barbara Lynch

What’s Happening

Last Bites

Upcoming Events

Thursday evenings, June 7–September 6
Salty’s—Thursday Clambakes on Spectacle Island

Sunday evenings, June 10–September 9
Salty’s—Sunday Luaus on Spectacle Island

Thursday, July 5–Sunday, September 2
BLC Summer Passport Series—partake in curated food and beverage experiences around the Barbara Lynch Collective, and receive a $50 BLC gift card for completing the passport.

September

Labor Day: Monday, September 3
All Barbara Lynch Collective concepts closed

MONDAY AND TUESDAYS, September 6–September 25, 4 P.M.–Close
The Butcher Shop—Burgers & Beers

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 7
No. 9 Park 20th Anniversary Party

Sunday, SEPTEMBER 9
Tiki Sunday at Drink

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 16
Drink­—Rosé to Wassail

October

TUESDAY, OCTOBER 2
Drink 10th Anniversary

THURSDAY, OCTOBER 4
Menton Gold Bar —Rudi Pichler Wine Dinner

SATURDAY, OCTOBER 6, FOR CONCIERGE MEMBERS AND SATURDAY, OCTOBER 13, FOR THE PUBLIC
Stir —November Schedule Release

SUNDAY, OCTOBER 21
No. 9 Park —New Orleans Cocktail Class

MONDAY, OCTOBER 22 –FRIDAY, OCTOBER 26
Stir on the Road: White Truffle Bootcamp

SATURDAY, OCTOBER 27–SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 4
Stir on the Road: Grand Tour of Piedmont

November

THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 1
Drink —Dia De Los Muertos

Marketplace

This curated selection of goods perfect for seasonal giving can be found for sale at The Butcher Shop, Stir, Menton, and B&G Oysters.


SHUCKER STARTER PACK
Treat the oyster aficionado in your life to oyster-shucking classes with a master shucker.

The Shucker Starter Pack includes an Oyster-Shucking Class for Two—two B&G-branded oyster knives to use during the lesson and take home, step-by-step instructions on a few practice oysters, a dozen oysters to shuck and enjoy, and two glasses of Champagne—two B&G-branded T-shirts, and a copy of The Geography of Oysters by Rowan Jacobsen.

Marketplace

This curated selection of goods perfect for seasonal giving can be found for sale at The Butcher Shop, Stir, Menton, and B&G Oysters.

Stir Picnic Baskets
Explore the beauty of a New England summer with a feast fit for any type of adventure. This summer, Stir offers a limited number of themed solid birch baskets that showcase our favorite flavors best enjoyed outside—at a picnic for two, at the beach, or by Walden Pond! All food and drinks highlight summer’s bounty from Siena Farms.

June: Classic Americana—think fried chicken, potato salad, and seasonal summer sides.

July: Southern France— We’ll transport you to the shores of Southern France with dishes like pâté to share and salade niçoise.

August: Mediterranean—your basket might include focaccia, insalata caprese, and other favorites.

New this year, baskets are available for pickup any day of the week with just 48 hours’ notice! Call 617.423.7847 or stop by Stir to order.

Community

Sharing Common Attitudes, Interests, and Goals

Ellen Silverman is concierge at the Royal Sonesta Boston and president of the Greater Boston Concierge Association. She previously spent 14 years at Marriott’s Custom House, where her many duties included chef concierge, activities manager, event planner, and interior designer. In the early ’90s, she was known in the hospitality industry as “Miss Information”!

Here are Ellen’s tips on the best ways to incorporate Boston’s legacy while you take in the city, whether you are an out-of-town visitor or a local reacquainting with the Olde Towne.


Faneuil Hall Marketplace (or Quincy Market)
A meeting hall and marketplace since 1743, it has been called the Cradle of Liberty because of the many revolutionaries (think Samuel Adams) and abolitionists who made important speeches here. Take a historical tour and enjoy more than 100 places to eat, shop, and drink. faneuilhallmarketplace.com

The Old State House
The oldest and most important public building in American history prior to the Revolution, the Old State House is where John Adams insisted, “Independence was born.” It’s also site of the 1768 Boston Massacre, when the building was known as the Custom House. bostonhistory.org

Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum
Opened in 1903 by Isabella Stewart Gardner, an eclectic American art collector and patron of the arts, the building was designed to emulate a 15th-century Venetian palace. In 1990, a pair of thieves stole 13 paintings from the museum, including Rembrandts and a Vermeer. The pieces were never recovered. gardnermuseum.org

Ether Dome at Mass General Hospital
In 1846, the first public surgery using an anesthetic for which it’s named was held in the hospital’s surgical amphitheater. Today, it is a teaching amphitheater and historical landmark, along with the accompanying Russell Museum of Medical History and Innovation. massgeneral.org

Boston Public Library
Established in 1848 as the first large, free municipal library in the United States, Boston Public Library is now the second biggest in the nation today . Among its collections are several first edition folios of William Shakespeare, original music scores from Mozart to Prokofiev’s Peter and the Wolf, and the personal library of John Adams. Bates Hall is considered one of the most architecturally important rooms in the world. Enjoy afternoon tea overlooking the courtyard. blp.org

Parker House Hotel
Opened in 1855, Parker House Hotel (now the Omni Parker House) was a rendezvous for politicians and home to the Saturday Club for poets and essayists like Emerson, Thoreau, Hawthorne, and Longfellow. Charles Dickens lived here in 1867, and it’s also the birthplace of the Parker House Roll and Boston Cream Pie, not to mention former training grounds for Emeril Lagasse. omnihotels.com/hotels/boston-parker-house

The African Meeting House
Built in 1806 and open to the public, the African Meeting House is the oldest black church edifice still standing in the United States. In addition to its religious and educational activities, this National Historic Landmark became a place for celebrations and political meetings and was called the Black Faneuil Hall during the abolitionist movement. maah.org/site14.htm

Publisher
Michael Goldman

Editor-in-Chief
Pamela Jouan

Design Director
Seton Rossini

Managing Editor
Christian Kappner

Assistant Editor
Stephane Henrion

Senior Copy Editor
kelly suzan waggoner

Contributing Writer
Pamela Jouan

Photography
Xander Brown
all others Courtesy of BLC

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Special Issue