Winter 2020

Chef Laurent Tourondel along with LT Steak
Chef Laurent Tourondel along with LT Steak
Cooler months always seem to spark inspiration. Perhaps it’s that crispness in the air that brings us back to life after a hot and humid summer. Traveling in the fall and winter is wonderful — but then Paris is wonderful any time of the year, which is where I recently went for a quick business trip. I made time to hunt for treasures at the world-famous Les Puces flea market. Sometimes my finds end up in my restaurants. Maybe one of them will find its way into a nook or cranny at Scusi, which opened in November in West Palm Beach. It’s an ode to coastal Italian design and cooking, and I can’t wait for you to experience it.

As our menus transition with the seasons, mushrooms find a home in many of my dishes. You can find featured recipes in this issue. Learn about some of the wines on our lists and the vineyards they came from. As always, meet some of the staff that make your meals so memorable, working tirelessly behind the scenes to ensure details on every level.

Lastly, enjoy the tête-à-tête I had recently at L’Amico with Philippe Givre, executive pastry chef at L’École du Grand Chocolat de Valrhona. We have known each other for almost 30 years! It is always great fun to be in a kitchen with a like-minded soul to taste and talk about our craft.

With some fun projects in the works to discuss in the next issue, I leave you to enjoy a new season filled with love, laughter, and always good food.

Bon appétit!

Contents
ON THE PLATE
Mushrooms shine in our seasonal menus

WHERE IS CHEF TOURONDEL?
Paris review

BLIND TASTE TEST
Chef Tourondel invites Chef Philippe Givre to L’Amico

MEET THE STAFF
Director of Operations Steven Carro

SCUSI BY DESIGN
Italian coastal influence pops in this space

BEHIND THE BAR
Cocktails from Scusi

Recipes

Recipe
Roundtable
Fall is a fantastic time to forage for wild mushrooms, and so they pop up on menus throughout the season. Chef Laurent Tourondel offers these seasonal beauties in a selection of recipes you can enjoy at his restaurants or at home.

Slow-Roasted Hen of The Wood Mushrooms

Toasted Chestnuts, Confit Garlic, and Apple Cider Gastrique

“Have a spoon handy while you are cooking the mushrooms so that you can baste them with the brown butter and garlic sauce while they cook.” —Danny Ganem, Executive Chef at LT Steak & Seafood and the Alley

1 large side dish for sharing

6 packages of maitake mushrooms
4 sprigs fresh thyme
2 whole bay leaves
1 whole bulb garlic, cut in half horizontally
1/2 cup white sugar
1 cup apple cider vinegar
1/4 cup apple juice
1 cup peeled chestnuts
1–2 tbs olive oil
1 tbs whole unsalted butter
Salt and black pepper to taste

Recipe
Roundtable
Fall is a fantastic time to forage for wild mushrooms, and so they pop up on menus throughout the season. Chef Laurent Tourondel offers these seasonal beauties in a selection of recipes you can enjoy at his restaurants or at home.
Slow-Roasted Hen of The Wood Mushrooms recipe

Slow-Roasted Hen of The Wood Mushrooms

Toasted Chestnuts, Confit Garlic, and Apple Cider Gastrique

“Have a spoon handy while you are cooking the mushrooms so that you can baste them with the brown butter and garlic sauce while they cook.” —Danny Ganem, Executive Chef at LT Steak & Seafood and the Alley

1 large side dish for sharing

6 packages of maitake mushrooms
4 sprigs fresh thyme
2 whole bay leaves
1 whole bulb garlic, cut in half horizontally
1/2 cup white sugar
1 cup apple cider vinegar
1/4 cup apple juice
1 cup peeled chestnuts
1–2 tbs olive oil
1 tbs whole unsalted butter
Salt and black pepper to taste

Recipes

Lamico - Laurent Tourondel logo

Mushroom Bolognese

with Whole Wheat Pappardelle Pasta, and Walnut Gremolata

“You can swap in any of your favorite mushrooms in this dish. Porcini are particularly amazing this time of the year! You can also make the pasta dough a day in advance so that prep day won’t be so hectic.” —Chef Emilie Walsh

Serves 4

1/3 cup olive oil
1 tbs garlic, chopped
4 oz white wine
1 pint mushroom sauce (see recipe below)
4 oz whole wheat pappardelle pasta (see recipe below)
Chopped chives to season
Grated Parmesan cheese to garnish
Drizzle of toasted walnut gremolata
Shaved button mushrooms to garnish
Fried sage to garnish

Mushroom Bolognese with Whole Wheat Pappardelle Pasta, and Walnut Gremolata
Lamico - Laurent Tourondel logo

Mushroom Bolognese

with Whole Wheat Pappardelle Pasta, and Walnut Gremolata

“You can swap in any of your favorite mushrooms in this dish. Porcini are particularly amazing this time of the year! You can also make the pasta dough a day in advance so that prep day won’t be so hectic.” —Chef Emilie Walsh

Serves 4

1/3 cup olive oil
1 tbs garlic, chopped
4 oz white wine
1 pint mushroom sauce (see recipe below)
4 oz whole wheat pappardelle pasta (see recipe below)
Chopped chives to season
Grated Parmesan cheese to garnish
Drizzle of toasted walnut gremolata
Shaved button mushrooms to garnish
Fried sage to garnish

Recipes

Wild Mushroom Manicotti Gratinée

Wild Mushroom
Manicotti Gratinée

with Fine Herbs and Sage-Garlic Brown Butter

“You can build this recipe into a wild mushroom lasagna by alternating layers of mushrooms and some of the sauce along with different types of cheese between the sheets of pasta. Try a fontina or even a taleggio cheese. To get really fancy, try shaving black truffles over the top.”
—Chef Andrew Buffalino

Serves 4

Ingredients
3/4 cup mixed wild mushroom stuffing (recipe below)
2 parcooked De Cecco brand lasagna sheet (1 sheet for 2 servings)
Chicken stock or water as needed
1/4 cup grated New York State aged white cheddar cheese
8 oz creamy mushroom sauce and sautéed mushrooms (recipe below)
Sage-garlic brown butter to drizzle (recipe below)
Fried sage to garnish

Recipes

Wild Mushroom Grits

with Porcini Powder and Parmesan

“Have all the ingredients for the grits weighed and close at hand for use prior to cooking, as these last components need to be added quickly to ensure no lumps form. Use a medium-size whisk (nothing too big) and a spatula for this dish to ensure there are no big lumps of grits.” —Chef de Cuisine David Cutcliffe, Laurent at the Café Royal

Serves 4

2 cups creamy grits per recipe (see recipe below)
2 cups wild mushroom fricassee (see recipe below)
Parsnip chips to garnish (see recipe below)
Fried thyme to garnish
Shaved Parmesan to garnish
Porcini powder dust to garnish

Mushroom Bolognese with Whole Wheat Pappardelle Pasta, and Walnut Gremolata

Wild Mushroom Grits

with Porcini Powder and Parmesan

Lamico - Laurent Tourondel logo
“Have all the ingredients for the grits weighed and close at hand for use prior to cooking, as these last components need to be added quickly to ensure no lumps form. Use a medium-size whisk (nothing too big) and a spatula for this dish to ensure there are no big lumps of grits.” —Chef de Cuisine David Cutcliffe, Laurent at the Café Royal

Serves 4

2 cups creamy grits per recipe (see recipe below)
2 cups wild mushroom fricassee (see recipe below)
Parsnip chips to garnish (see recipe below)
Fried thyme to garnish
Shaved Parmesan to garnish
Porcini powder dust to garnish

TRAVEL
Where is Chef Tourondel? Winter 2020
A Quick Trip to Paris header
When you are as busy as Chef Laurent Tourondel, sometimes all you’re afforded in a city as magical as Paris is a quick couple of days! However, he still found time to visit a few of his favorite places and swing by the flea markets to do a little shopping.
BE SEEN AT THE LUTETIA HOTEL
After a four-year renovation, this Belle Époque hotel with a soaring Art Deco lobby has taken its rightful place in the spotlight of the Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Views of the Eiffel Tower and beyond.
hotellutetia.com
TRY THE NEW GENRE BUFFET AT POLICHINELLE
Chefs Christophe Michalak and Steve Burggraf team up at this new place opened in September, offering a brunch program that appeals even to those who’ve sworn off this hybrid meal. Seasonal, local, green, and tasty are words that define this midday experience.
polichinelle-restaurant.com
BRING HOME A MEMORY FROM LES PUCES
Prepare to wear comfortable walking shoes at this vast flea market. Officially called Les Puces de Saint-Ouen, it offers seven hectares of antique market stalls. Download a map before you go.
paris-flea-market.com
START YOUR DAY AT BRASSERIE LUTETIA
It’s an easy commute for Chef Tourondel when he stays at the hotel, but breakfast at Brasserie Lutetia is a great way to get your morning started. With Michelin-starred chef Gérald Passedat in the kitchen, even the coffee tastes better.
hotellutetia.com/brasserie
HAVE LUNCH AT BRASSERIE LIPP
With a focus on Alsatian cuisine, Brasserie Lipp does not disappoint. This Saint-Germain institution reeks of history. Classic brasserie aesthetic with waitstaff that doesn’t disappoint in hospitality.
brasserielipp.fr
BE DAZZLED AT THE L’ATELIER DES LUMIÈRES
This reconverted iron foundry is now an all-digital art museum and cultural space that features the works of Dutch expressionist Vincent van Gogh through a nonstop display of moving images, light, and sound.
atelier-lumieres.com/en/home
Blind Taste Test
Chef Laurent Tourondel  Blindfolds Chef Philippe Givre
Put to the Test
Chef Laurent Tourondel
Blindfolds Chef Philippe Givre
On a rainy day in the middle of fall, a chef — tall, French, and distinguished — slips through the doors of New York’s Kimpton Eventi Hotel with a small box tucked under his arm. He’s looking for someone he worked with almost three decades ago.
Chef Philippe Givre is executive pastry chef of L’École du Grand Chocolat de Valrhona and coordinator of the four centers it owns in Tain L’Hermitage, Paris-Versailles, Tokyo, and Brooklyn. He joined the company in 2003, bringing with him a rich knowledge of pastry previously acquired at such outstanding establishments as Fauchon and the three-Michelin-starred restaurant La Maison Troisgros, where he first met Laurent Tourondel.

At the time, Tourondel was working on the savory side while Givre was on the pastry side. The two became friends and kept in touch, as most do in this tight-knit community that culinary folk call their family.

MEET THE STAFF
A Path of His Own

Laurent Tourondel Hospitality Director of Operations Steven Carro on peeling shrimp, the importance of failing, and the ever-evolving restaurant business model.

A Path of His Own
Laurent Tourondel Hospitality Director of Operations Steven Carro on peeling shrimp, the importance of failing, and the ever-evolving restaurant business model.
A Path of His Own - Steven Carro

W
hen Steven Carro meets with prospective hires, he does his best to dissuade them from getting into the restaurant business. “The first thing I say is, ‘Don’t do it!’ If you have enough people tell you that and you can get past it, then this is the business for you. You have to have passion, because, frankly, dreams of grandeur are great, but it’s about the minutiae. To be successful, you have to know how to peel shrimp endlessly, do the dishes, and all the nitty-gritty bits in between.” That said, he doesn’t know what else he would do besides work in the industry.

Carro grew up in Brooklyn and Staten Island, shaped, as many hospitality people are, by the cooking of family members: an Irish mother, an Italian father, and a great-grandfather who owned a speakeasy in the Navy Yard. Perhaps it was in his DNA. Sunday meals can be defining memories, and it was no different for Carro. Meatballs, pig’s feet, tripe, and lasagna dressed the table. “I learned what I liked and what I didn’t, like Spam and beef’s tongue.” But it was an aunt, straight off the boat from Italy, who opened his eyes to real cooking. “I grew up on third-generation cooking. Then along came this woman who smoked her own salmon, grew her own eggplant, and made her own pasta. When I tasted her food, I knew I wanted to go to culinary school.”

Design
front of Scusi Trattoria
by Crème Design
by Crème Design
by Crème Design
Walk into Scusi, and you might think you’ve slipped into a beach town café given its trademark seaside blue tones, whitewashed woods, and striped fabrics that pop with color. That is exactly how Chef Laurent Tourondel wants you to feel. He did his research, visiting a number of places in seaside areas around Italy to set the atmosphere for Scusi. Crème Design artfully translated his vision into the space you see today.
Design
SCUSI
by the
GLASS

The wine list at Scusi was curated by Percy Rodriguez, beverage director for Laurent Tourondel Hospitality. Similar to L’Amico, it features Italian wines along with a small selection of Champagne and American wines.

Coming in at around 100 labels, this tight little list packs quite a punch. The menu itself is broken down only by color or sparkling category, and not specific location. Rodriguez made sure it’s approachable, with something for everyone. “The list serves as an introduction to Italian wine, its indigenous varietals, and rock star winemakers, big and small. There’s also recognizable pinot grigios, chardonnays, and cabernet sauvignons, while also championing friulanos, sangioveses, nerello mascaleses, and many more. Guests have the opportunity to explore the regions of Italy alongside Chef Tourondel’s excellent interpretation of Italian cuisine.”

Fantinel Prosecco Extra Dry
The perfect bubble for happy hour or to start off a meal.
Alois Lageder ‘Riff’ Pinot Grigio
This Northern Italian white elevates any seafood dish it’s paired with.
Attems Ramato
A prestigious winery, an old-school style of winemaking, with pinot grigio served out of a magnum.
De Conciliis Aglianico
From the hills of Paestum, south of Vesuvius, this red shines with mineral, spice, and dark fruit.
Squadra Rosso
From Sicily, and made by Master Sommelier Bobby Stuckey. This is your go-to pizza wine.
Scusi Selections
by Dino Tantawi

Since 1999, Dino Tantawi of Vignaioli Selection has scoured Italy to bring his best wine finds to the American consumer. Tantawi’s approach to selecting wines reflects his own wine attitude, philosophy, and experience. He feels the history and background of vineyards and winemakers are essential to the character and regional depth of their wines. Found in each of Vignaioli’s wine selections is an interpretation of terroir, microclimates, and winemaker philosophies.

VIGNAIOLO (vee-n’yah-EEOH-loh): Italian for “vine-dresser,” someone who tends to the vines (pl. vignaioli)

Scusi Selections
by Dino Tantawi

Since 1999, Dino Tantawi of Vignaioli Selection has scoured Italy to bring his best wine finds to the American consumer. Tantawi’s approach to selecting wines reflects his own wine attitude, philosophy, and experience. He feels the history and background of vineyards and winemakers are essential to the character and regional depth of their wines. Found in each of Vignaioli’s wine selections is an interpretation of terroir, microclimates, and winemaker philosophies.

VIGNAIOLO (vee-n’yah-EEOH-loh): Italian for “vine-dresser,” someone who tends to the vines (pl. vignaioli)

Dino Tantawi of Vignaioli Selection
Roccafiore Bianco Fiordaliso

Nestled in the green hills of Todi in Umbria, Cantina Roccafiore grow their grapes in organically cultivated soil. At 75 percent Grechetto di Todi and 15 percent Trebbiano Spoletino, the grapes are grown in clay soil, totally hand-picked when they are perfectly ripe and then gently pressed. The maceration of the must is done naturally and the fermentation process is carried out in steel vats with temperature controlled. Aging takes place for 6 months in stainless and 6 months in the bottle before its release.

Color is straw-yellow wine with golden lights. Bouquets of white flowers and green apple notes. Crispy and dry taste, with a long tasting finish. Pair with: white meat, fish, and pasta with cream sauces.

CASTELLO DEL TERRICCIO, TASSINAIA IGT
Dino Tantawi of Vignaioli Selection
CASTELLO DEL TERRICCIO, TASSINAIA IGT
Roccafiore Bianco Fiordaliso

Nestled in the green hills of Todi in Umbria, Cantina Roccafiore grow their grapes in organically cultivated soil. At 75 percent Grechetto di Todi and 15 percent Trebbiano Spoletino, the grapes are grown in clay soil, totally hand-picked when they are perfectly ripe and then gently pressed. The maceration of the must is done naturally and the fermentation process is carried out in steel vats with temperature controlled. Aging takes place for 6 months in stainless and 6 months in the bottle before its release.

Color is straw-yellow wine with golden lights. Bouquets of white flowers and green apple notes. Crispy and dry taste, with a long tasting finish. Pair with: white meat, fish, and pasta with cream sauces.

Cocktails

Take a Sip of Scusi

Seasonal Cocktails
Cosmopolitan

2 oz Grey Goose
1 oz white cranberry juice
0.5 oz lime juice
0.25 oz lemon juice
0.5 oz simple syrup
1 oz egg white

Hard shake with strainer inside.
Double strain into a deco coupe.
Spray with lips stencil.

Tonic

1 cucumber strip
1.5 oz Nolet’s Gin
0.75 oz Quinquina
0.75 oz lime juice
0.5 oz simple syrup
Soda to top

Wrap cucumber strip inside glass.
Hard shake all ingredients except soda.
Strain into beer can glass.
Top with soda.

Spritz

1 oz Aperol
1 oz vodka
0.75 oz grapefruit juice
0.25 oz St-Germaine
2 oz prosecco
1 grapefruit twist cut with pinking shears

Hard shake all ingredients except prosecco.
Strain into a wine glass filled with rocks.
Top with prosecco.
Add garnish.

Manhattan

2 oz Whip Saw Rye
0.5 oz cinnamon-infused Foro Amaro
2 barspoon maple syrup
1 cinnamon stick
1 cherry on wooden skewer

Stir.
Strain into rocks glass.
Add garnishes.

Cosmopolitan
Tonic
Cosmopolitan

2 oz Grey Goose
1 oz white cranberry juice
0.5 oz lime juice
0.25 oz lemon juice
0.5 oz simple syrup
1 oz egg white

Hard shake with strainer inside.
Double strain into a deco coupe.
Spray with lips stencil.

Tonic

1 cucumber strip
1.5 oz Nolet’s Gin
0.75 oz Quinquina
0.75 oz lime juice
0.5 oz simple syrup
Soda to top

Wrap cucumber strip inside glass.
Hard shake all ingredients except soda.
Strain into beer can glass.
Top with soda.

Spritz
Spritz
Spritz

1 oz Aperol
1 oz vodka
0.75 oz grapefruit juice
0.25 oz St-Germaine
2 oz prosecco
1 grapefruit twist cut with pinking shears

Hard shake all ingredients except prosecco.
Strain into a wine glass filled with rocks.
Top with prosecco.
Add garnish.

Manhattan

2 oz Whip Saw Rye
0.5 oz cinnamon-infused Foro Amaro
2 barspoon maple syrup
1 cinnamon stick
1 cherry on wooden skewer

Stir.
Strain into rocks glass.
Add garnishes.

Cosmopolitan
Cosmopolitan

2 oz Grey Goose
1 oz white cranberry juice
0.5 oz lime juice
0.25 oz lemon juice
0.5 oz simple syrup
1 oz egg white

Hard shake with strainer inside.
Double strain into a deco coupe.
Spray with lips stencil.

Tonic
Tonic

1 cucumber strip
1.5 oz Nolet’s Gin
0.75 oz Quinquina
0.75 oz lime juice
0.5 oz simple syrup
Soda to top

Wrap cucumber strip inside glass.
Hard shake all ingredients except soda.
Strain into beer can glass.
Top with soda.

Spritz
Spritz

1 oz Aperol
1 oz vodka
0.75 oz grapefruit juice
0.25 oz St-Germaine
2 oz prosecco
1 grapefruit twist cut with pinking shears

Hard shake all ingredients except prosecco.
Strain into a wine glass filled with rocks.
Top with prosecco.
Add garnish.

Spritz
Manhattan

2 oz Whip Saw Rye
0.5 oz cinnamon-infused Foro Amaro
2 barspoon maple syrup
1 cinnamon stick
1 cherry on wooden skewer

Stir.
Strain into rocks glass.
Add garnishes.

Dalla Terra Winery Direct

From the Ground to L’Amico

Vineyards of Dalla Terra Winery Direct
Vineyards of Dalla Terra Winery Direct
Dalla Terra Winery Direct logo
Founded in 1990, Dalla Terra Winery Direct is a direct importer and national agent of a select group of leading, family-owned estate wineries in Italy. The name Dalla Terra means “of the earth” and represents a commitment to work alongside estates that are at the top echelon of quality in their respective regions or appellations. The wines they produce are authentic, indigenous, and full of character, while embracing progressive viticulture and winemaking.

You can find their wines at L’Amico, where Beverage Director Percy Rodriguez easily pairs them with Chef Tourondel’s varied menu.

Lageder "Porer" Pinot Grigio wine
Lageder “Porer” Pinot Grigio

A combination of thre vinifications married together to make one wine. Fresh and mineral, very rewarding. A killer combination with any of Chef Tourondel’s crudo.
aloislageder.eu/wines/all-wines

Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico wine
Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico
Considered one of the most representative wines of the Chianti Classico appellation, this wine is the result of absolutely natural production methods using hand-picked, organically grown Sangiovese and Canaiolo grapes. Pairs well with the skirt steak.
coltibuono.com/en
LT Burger logo
LT Burger

62 Main Street
Sag Harbor, NY 11963
ltburger.com

Brklyn Beer Garden logo
Brklyn Beer Garden

JFK Airport, Terminal 2

Brasserie Ruhlmann logo
Brasserie Ruhlmann

45 Rockefeller Plaza
New York, NY 10011
brasserieruhlmann.com

The Betsy logos
The Betsy

1440 Ocean Drive
Miami Beach, FL 33139
thebetsyhotel.com/dining

Sag Pizza logo
Sag Pizza

103 Main Street
Sag Harbor, NY 11963
laurent-tourondel.com

L’Amico and The Vine logos
L’Amico and The Vine

849 Avenue of the Americas
New York, NY 10001
laurent-tourondel.com

Laurent at Café Royal logo
Laurent at Café Royal

68 Regent Street
London, W1B 4DY UK
hotelcaferoyal.com/laurent-at-cafe-royal

Scusi Trattoria logo
Scusi

290 East Atlantic Avenue
Delray Beach, FL 33444
laurent-tourondel.com

Publisher
Michael Goldman

Editor-in-Chief
Pamela Jouan

Design Director
Seton Rossini

Managing Editor
Christian Kappner

Assistant Editor
Stephane Henrion

Senior Copy Editor
kelly suzan waggoner

Contributing Writer
Pamela Jouan

Photography
P3 seafood festival
Courtesy of South Beach Seafood Festival
p5 photo by Danny Garem
P11–13 photos by Cesar Isabel (photofactory29.com)

All others courtesy of
Front of House Photography and LT Hospitality

Advertising Inquiries
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