


As our menus transition with the seasons, mushrooms find a home in many of my dishes. You can find featured recipes in this issue. Learn about some of the wines on our lists and the vineyards they came from. As always, meet some of the staff that make your meals so memorable, working tirelessly behind the scenes to ensure details on every level.
Lastly, enjoy the tête-à-tête I had recently at L’Amico with Philippe Givre, executive pastry chef at L’École du Grand Chocolat de Valrhona. We have known each other for almost 30 years! It is always great fun to be in a kitchen with a like-minded soul to taste and talk about our craft.
With some fun projects in the works to discuss in the next issue, I leave you to enjoy a new season filled with love, laughter, and always good food.
Bon appétit!

Mushrooms shine in our seasonal menus
WHERE IS CHEF TOURONDEL?
Paris review
BLIND TASTE TEST
Chef Tourondel invites Chef Philippe Givre to L’Amico
MEET THE STAFF
Director of Operations Steven Carro
SCUSI BY DESIGN
Italian coastal influence pops in this space
BEHIND THE BAR
Cocktails from Scusi
Recipes
Roundtable

Slow-Roasted Hen of The Wood Mushrooms
Toasted Chestnuts, Confit Garlic, and Apple Cider Gastrique
“Have a spoon handy while you are cooking the mushrooms so that you can baste them with the brown butter and garlic sauce while they cook.” —Danny Ganem, Executive Chef at LT Steak & Seafood and the Alley
1 large side dish for sharing
6 packages of maitake mushrooms
4 sprigs fresh thyme
2 whole bay leaves
1 whole bulb garlic, cut in half horizontally
1/2 cup white sugar
1 cup apple cider vinegar
1/4 cup apple juice
1 cup peeled chestnuts
1–2 tbs olive oil
1 tbs whole unsalted butter
Salt and black pepper to taste
Roundtable


Slow-Roasted Hen of The Wood Mushrooms
Toasted Chestnuts, Confit Garlic, and Apple Cider Gastrique
“Have a spoon handy while you are cooking the mushrooms so that you can baste them with the brown butter and garlic sauce while they cook.” —Danny Ganem, Executive Chef at LT Steak & Seafood and the Alley
1 large side dish for sharing
6 packages of maitake mushrooms
4 sprigs fresh thyme
2 whole bay leaves
1 whole bulb garlic, cut in half horizontally
1/2 cup white sugar
1 cup apple cider vinegar
1/4 cup apple juice
1 cup peeled chestnuts
1–2 tbs olive oil
1 tbs whole unsalted butter
Salt and black pepper to taste
Recipes

Mushroom Bolognese
with Whole Wheat Pappardelle Pasta, and Walnut Gremolata
Serves 4
1/3 cup olive oil
1 tbs garlic, chopped
4 oz white wine
1 pint mushroom sauce (see recipe below)
4 oz whole wheat pappardelle pasta (see recipe below)
Chopped chives to season
Grated Parmesan cheese to garnish
Drizzle of toasted walnut gremolata
Shaved button mushrooms to garnish
Fried sage to garnish


Mushroom Bolognese
with Whole Wheat Pappardelle Pasta, and Walnut Gremolata
Serves 4
1/3 cup olive oil
1 tbs garlic, chopped
4 oz white wine
1 pint mushroom sauce (see recipe below)
4 oz whole wheat pappardelle pasta (see recipe below)
Chopped chives to season
Grated Parmesan cheese to garnish
Drizzle of toasted walnut gremolata
Shaved button mushrooms to garnish
Fried sage to garnish
Recipes


Wild Mushroom
Manicotti Gratinée
with Fine Herbs and Sage-Garlic Brown Butter
—Chef Andrew Buffalino
Serves 4
Ingredients
3/4 cup mixed wild mushroom stuffing (recipe below)
2 parcooked De Cecco brand lasagna sheet (1 sheet for 2 servings)
Chicken stock or water as needed
1/4 cup grated New York State aged white cheddar cheese
8 oz creamy mushroom sauce and sautéed mushrooms (recipe below)
Sage-garlic brown butter to drizzle (recipe below)
Fried sage to garnish
Recipes

Wild Mushroom Grits
with Porcini Powder and Parmesan

Serves 4
2 cups creamy grits per recipe (see recipe below)
2 cups wild mushroom fricassee (see recipe below)
Parsnip chips to garnish (see recipe below)
Fried thyme to garnish
Shaved Parmesan to garnish
Porcini powder dust to garnish

Wild Mushroom Grits
with Porcini Powder and Parmesan

Serves 4
2 cups creamy grits per recipe (see recipe below)
2 cups wild mushroom fricassee (see recipe below)
Parsnip chips to garnish (see recipe below)
Fried thyme to garnish
Shaved Parmesan to garnish
Porcini powder dust to garnish


After a four-year renovation, this Belle Époque hotel with a soaring Art Deco lobby has taken its rightful place in the spotlight of the Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Views of the Eiffel Tower and beyond.
hotellutetia.com
Chefs Christophe Michalak and Steve Burggraf team up at this new place opened in September, offering a brunch program that appeals even to those who’ve sworn off this hybrid meal. Seasonal, local, green, and tasty are words that define this midday experience.
polichinelle-restaurant.com
Prepare to wear comfortable walking shoes at this vast flea market. Officially called Les Puces de Saint-Ouen, it offers seven hectares of antique market stalls. Download a map before you go.
paris-flea-market.com
It’s an easy commute for Chef Tourondel when he stays at the hotel, but breakfast at Brasserie Lutetia is a great way to get your morning started. With Michelin-starred chef Gérald Passedat in the kitchen, even the coffee tastes better.
hotellutetia.com/brasserie
With a focus on Alsatian cuisine, Brasserie Lipp does not disappoint. This Saint-Germain institution reeks of history. Classic brasserie aesthetic with waitstaff that doesn’t disappoint in hospitality.
brasserielipp.fr
This reconverted iron foundry is now an all-digital art museum and cultural space that features the works of Dutch expressionist Vincent van Gogh through a nonstop display of moving images, light, and sound.
atelier-lumieres.com/en/home

Blindfolds Chef Philippe Givre
At the time, Tourondel was working on the savory side while Givre was on the pastry side. The two became friends and kept in touch, as most do in this tight-knit community that culinary folk call their family.
Laurent Tourondel Hospitality Director of Operations Steven Carro on peeling shrimp, the importance of failing, and the ever-evolving restaurant business model.

W
hen Steven Carro meets with prospective hires, he does his best to dissuade them from getting into the restaurant business. “The first thing I say is, ‘Don’t do it!’ If you have enough people tell you that and you can get past it, then this is the business for you. You have to have passion, because, frankly, dreams of grandeur are great, but it’s about the minutiae. To be successful, you have to know how to peel shrimp endlessly, do the dishes, and all the nitty-gritty bits in between.” That said, he doesn’t know what else he would do besides work in the industry.
Carro grew up in Brooklyn and Staten Island, shaped, as many hospitality people are, by the cooking of family members: an Irish mother, an Italian father, and a great-grandfather who owned a speakeasy in the Navy Yard. Perhaps it was in his DNA. Sunday meals can be defining memories, and it was no different for Carro. Meatballs, pig’s feet, tripe, and lasagna dressed the table. “I learned what I liked and what I didn’t, like Spam and beef’s tongue.” But it was an aunt, straight off the boat from Italy, who opened his eyes to real cooking. “I grew up on third-generation cooking. Then along came this woman who smoked her own salmon, grew her own eggplant, and made her own pasta. When I tasted her food, I knew I wanted to go to culinary school.”








The wine list at Scusi was curated by Percy Rodriguez, beverage director for Laurent Tourondel Hospitality. Similar to L’Amico, it features Italian wines along with a small selection of Champagne and American wines.
Coming in at around 100 labels, this tight little list packs quite a punch. The menu itself is broken down only by color or sparkling category, and not specific location. Rodriguez made sure it’s approachable, with something for everyone. “The list serves as an introduction to Italian wine, its indigenous varietals, and rock star winemakers, big and small. There’s also recognizable pinot grigios, chardonnays, and cabernet sauvignons, while also championing friulanos, sangioveses, nerello mascaleses, and many more. Guests have the opportunity to explore the regions of Italy alongside Chef Tourondel’s excellent interpretation of Italian cuisine.”

Since 1999, Dino Tantawi of Vignaioli Selection has scoured Italy to bring his best wine finds to the American consumer. Tantawi’s approach to selecting wines reflects his own wine attitude, philosophy, and experience. He feels the history and background of vineyards and winemakers are essential to the character and regional depth of their wines. Found in each of Vignaioli’s wine selections is an interpretation of terroir, microclimates, and winemaker philosophies.
VIGNAIOLO (vee-n’yah-EEOH-loh): Italian for “vine-dresser,” someone who tends to the vines (pl. vignaioli)
Since 1999, Dino Tantawi of Vignaioli Selection has scoured Italy to bring his best wine finds to the American consumer. Tantawi’s approach to selecting wines reflects his own wine attitude, philosophy, and experience. He feels the history and background of vineyards and winemakers are essential to the character and regional depth of their wines. Found in each of Vignaioli’s wine selections is an interpretation of terroir, microclimates, and winemaker philosophies.
VIGNAIOLO (vee-n’yah-EEOH-loh): Italian for “vine-dresser,” someone who tends to the vines (pl. vignaioli)
Nestled in the green hills of Todi in Umbria, Cantina Roccafiore grow their grapes in organically cultivated soil. At 75 percent Grechetto di Todi and 15 percent Trebbiano Spoletino, the grapes are grown in clay soil, totally hand-picked when they are perfectly ripe and then gently pressed. The maceration of the must is done naturally and the fermentation process is carried out in steel vats with temperature controlled. Aging takes place for 6 months in stainless and 6 months in the bottle before its release.
Color is straw-yellow wine with golden lights. Bouquets of white flowers and green apple notes. Crispy and dry taste, with a long tasting finish. Pair with: white meat, fish, and pasta with cream sauces.


Nestled in the green hills of Todi in Umbria, Cantina Roccafiore grow their grapes in organically cultivated soil. At 75 percent Grechetto di Todi and 15 percent Trebbiano Spoletino, the grapes are grown in clay soil, totally hand-picked when they are perfectly ripe and then gently pressed. The maceration of the must is done naturally and the fermentation process is carried out in steel vats with temperature controlled. Aging takes place for 6 months in stainless and 6 months in the bottle before its release.
Color is straw-yellow wine with golden lights. Bouquets of white flowers and green apple notes. Crispy and dry taste, with a long tasting finish. Pair with: white meat, fish, and pasta with cream sauces.
Take a Sip of Scusi

2 oz Grey Goose
1 oz white cranberry juice
0.5 oz lime juice
0.25 oz lemon juice
0.5 oz simple syrup
1 oz egg white
Hard shake with strainer inside.
Double strain into a deco coupe.
Spray with lips stencil.
1 cucumber strip
1.5 oz Nolet’s Gin
0.75 oz Quinquina
0.75 oz lime juice
0.5 oz simple syrup
Soda to top
Wrap cucumber strip inside glass.
Hard shake all ingredients except soda.
Strain into beer can glass.
Top with soda.
1 oz Aperol
1 oz vodka
0.75 oz grapefruit juice
0.25 oz St-Germaine
2 oz prosecco
1 grapefruit twist cut with pinking shears
Hard shake all ingredients except prosecco.
Strain into a wine glass filled with rocks.
Top with prosecco.
Add garnish.
2 oz Whip Saw Rye
0.5 oz cinnamon-infused Foro Amaro
2 barspoon maple syrup
1 cinnamon stick
1 cherry on wooden skewer
Stir.
Strain into rocks glass.
Add garnishes.


2 oz Grey Goose
1 oz white cranberry juice
0.5 oz lime juice
0.25 oz lemon juice
0.5 oz simple syrup
1 oz egg white
Hard shake with strainer inside.
Double strain into a deco coupe.
Spray with lips stencil.
1 cucumber strip
1.5 oz Nolet’s Gin
0.75 oz Quinquina
0.75 oz lime juice
0.5 oz simple syrup
Soda to top
Wrap cucumber strip inside glass.
Hard shake all ingredients except soda.
Strain into beer can glass.
Top with soda.


1 oz Aperol
1 oz vodka
0.75 oz grapefruit juice
0.25 oz St-Germaine
2 oz prosecco
1 grapefruit twist cut with pinking shears
Hard shake all ingredients except prosecco.
Strain into a wine glass filled with rocks.
Top with prosecco.
Add garnish.
2 oz Whip Saw Rye
0.5 oz cinnamon-infused Foro Amaro
2 barspoon maple syrup
1 cinnamon stick
1 cherry on wooden skewer
Stir.
Strain into rocks glass.
Add garnishes.

2 oz Grey Goose
1 oz white cranberry juice
0.5 oz lime juice
0.25 oz lemon juice
0.5 oz simple syrup
1 oz egg white
Hard shake with strainer inside.
Double strain into a deco coupe.
Spray with lips stencil.

1 cucumber strip
1.5 oz Nolet’s Gin
0.75 oz Quinquina
0.75 oz lime juice
0.5 oz simple syrup
Soda to top
Wrap cucumber strip inside glass.
Hard shake all ingredients except soda.
Strain into beer can glass.
Top with soda.

1 oz Aperol
1 oz vodka
0.75 oz grapefruit juice
0.25 oz St-Germaine
2 oz prosecco
1 grapefruit twist cut with pinking shears
Hard shake all ingredients except prosecco.
Strain into a wine glass filled with rocks.
Top with prosecco.
Add garnish.

2 oz Whip Saw Rye
0.5 oz cinnamon-infused Foro Amaro
2 barspoon maple syrup
1 cinnamon stick
1 cherry on wooden skewer
Stir.
Strain into rocks glass.
Add garnishes.
Dalla Terra Winery Direct
From the Ground to L’Amico
You can find their wines at L’Amico, where Beverage Director Percy Rodriguez easily pairs them with Chef Tourondel’s varied menu.
A combination of thre vinifications married together to make one wine. Fresh and mineral, very rewarding. A killer combination with any of Chef Tourondel’s crudo.
aloislageder.eu/wines/all-wines

coltibuono.com/en
LT Burger
62 Main Street
Sag Harbor, NY 11963
ltburger.com

Brklyn Beer Garden
JFK Airport, Terminal 2
Brasserie Ruhlmann
45 Rockefeller Plaza
New York, NY 10011
brasserieruhlmann.com
The Betsy
1440 Ocean Drive
Miami Beach, FL 33139
thebetsyhotel.com/dining
Sag Pizza
103 Main Street
Sag Harbor, NY 11963
laurent-tourondel.com
L’Amico and The Vine
849 Avenue of the Americas
New York, NY 10001
laurent-tourondel.com
Laurent at Café Royal
68 Regent Street
London, W1B 4DY UK
hotelcaferoyal.com/laurent-at-cafe-royal
Scusi
290 East Atlantic Avenue
Delray Beach, FL 33444
laurent-tourondel.com
Publisher
Michael Goldman
Editor-in-Chief
Pamela Jouan
Design Director
Seton Rossini
Managing Editor
Christian Kappner
Assistant Editor
Stephane Henrion
Senior Copy Editor
kelly suzan waggoner
Contributing Writer
Pamela Jouan
P3 seafood festival
Courtesy of South Beach Seafood Festival
p5 photo by Danny Garem
P11–13 photos by Cesar Isabel (photofactory29.com)
All others courtesy of
Front of House Photography and LT Hospitality
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Thanks for reading our Winter 2020 issue!