Portugal beckons this summer, and then it’s back to Hong Kong and also Cambodia in the fall. I’ll save that for the next issue.
If you can, visit Sag Harbor this summer. I tap into its real sense of community with our restaurants out there. They are family oriented, which isn’t typical in the Hamptons. Grab a burger with your kids or a slice of pizza. There’s so much in town to do with kids in tow — or without them.
Staying in town? There’s nothing like a perfect evening unwinding in New York City. Hang out with friends at one of the Backyard Bashes at L’Amico. I love that it brings everyone together for a fun and different experience in the neighborhood.
With more projects in the works, 2019 is shaping up to be busy. Stay tuned for news on a casual Italian restaurant in Florida, an upscale steakhouse in New Jersey, and a one-of-a-kind steak concept in the Flatiron District that will preview a simplified menu and reasonable pricing.
Bon appétit!
Discovering South Africa
ON THE PLATE
Recipes from each of our restaurants
Summer in Sag Harbor
Where to eat, what to do, and recipes
Meet the Staff
Corporate Chef Ed Cotton
Behind the Bar
Fruit and Grain celebrates local
Recipes
Roundtable
QUINOA SALAD
KALE, SUGAR SNAP, PATTY PAN, AVOCADO, SHERRY VINAIGRETTE
1 pint Quinoa Pilaf (recipe below)
1/2 oz baby Tuscan kale leaves, shredded
2 oz garbanzo beans, blanched
2 oz sugar snaps, blanched and cut in a bias
4 oz Sherry Vinaigrette (recipe below)
Salt and pepper to taste
1 avocado, cut in large chunks
1 patty pan squash, cut in quarters, oven roasted
Pea shoots (yellow and green) for garnish
Quinoa pilaf
1/2 tsp olive oil
1/2 tsp diced Spanish onions
1/2 tsp garlic, chopped
1 cup black quinoa
1 cup red quinoa
1 cup white quinoa
1 pint vegetable stock
Salt and pepper to taste
In a large pan, heat up the olive oil for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the onions and garlic until translucent. Add the quinoa and toast lightly. Stir in the broth and bring to a boil.
Reduce heat, cover, and simmer for 15 minutes or until liquid is absorbed. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Remove from the heat and cool down immediately.
Roundtable
QUINOA SALAD
KALE, SUGAR SNAP, PATTY PAN, AVOCADO, SHERRY VINAIGRETTE
1 pint Quinoa Pilaf (recipe below)
1/2 oz baby Tuscan kale leaves, shredded
2 oz garbanzo beans, blanched
2 oz sugar snaps, blanched and cut in a bias
4 oz Sherry Vinaigrette (recipe below)
Salt and pepper to taste
1 avocado, cut in large chunks
1 patty pan squash, cut in quarters, oven roasted
Pea shoots (yellow and green) for garnish
Quinoa pilaf
1/2 tsp olive oil
1/2 tsp diced Spanish onions
1/2 tsp garlic, chopped
1 cup black quinoa
1 cup red quinoa
1 cup white quinoa
1 pint vegetable stock
Salt and pepper to taste
In a large pan, heat up the olive oil for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the onions and garlic until translucent. Add the quinoa and toast lightly. Stir in the broth and bring to a boil.
Reduce heat, cover, and simmer for 15 minutes or until liquid is absorbed. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Remove from the heat and cool down immediately.
Recipes
EGGPLANT CAPONATA CROSTINO
buffalo mozzarella, pignoli
Yields about 1 quart of caponata (roughly 16 crostinos)
Per crostino
2 oz Eggplant Caponata (recipe below)
1 filone, sliced 3/4-inch thick
Olive oil as needed
Salt and pepper to taste
1 1/2 oz buffalo mozzarella
1/2 tsp toasted pine nuts
Fresh oregano leaves
1/2 tsp Red Wine Vinaigrette (recipe below)
Sea salt to taste
Eggplant Caponata
2 oz extra-virgin olive oil
2 Japanese eggplant, medium dice
1 red pepper, medium dice
1 yellow pepper, medium dice
2 red onion, medium dice
1/2 oz garlic, chopped
1 sprig rosemary
6 oz crushed tomato sauce
4 oz golden raisins, rehydrated
1 oz red wine vinegar
Salt and pepper to taste
Recipes
CRISPY QUINOA PILAF
Serves 4 to 5
Ingredients
2 cups golden quinoa
1 1/2 qt water or vegetable stock
Salt to taste
1/2 cup red quinoa
2 cups water
Salt and pepper to taste
Frying oil, as needed
Olive oil, as needed
1 onion, diced small
1 oz ginger, chopped fine
2 cloves garlic chopped
1 cup small diced carrots
Sachet of 6 sprigs thyme and 1 bay leaf
1/2 cup white wine
Zest of 1 orange
Julienned snow pea shoots to garnish
Chopped parsley to garnish
Chopped, toasted pistachios to garnish
Picked chervil to garnish
Shaved baby carrot ribbons to garnish
Recipes
LOTS OF GRAINS SALAD
Fregola, Sunflower Seeds, Guava-tamarind Vinaigrette
Serves 6 to 8
This dish is great for a buffet platter while entertaining.
Spiced Fregola-Grain Salad (recipe below)
1 tbs toasted sunflower seeds
1/2 tbs toasted flaxseeds
Baby Tuscan kale leaves
Olive oil to mix
Grapefruit segments, broken into thirds
Avocado, cut in large chunks
Salt and pepper to taste
Golden pea tendrils
Calvin pea tendrils
Guava-Tamarind Vinaigrette (recipe below)
Summertime and Sag Harbor Livin’ Is Easy
It’s a charming town with a rich history. Sag Harbor’s earliest inhabitants were the Algonquin Indians, who called this place Weg-wag-onuch — or “the land or place at the end of the hill.”
From 1760 to 1850, Sag Harbor was a thriving whaling port. As a seaport, it was second only to New York City in importance. However, with the discovery of petroleum in Pennsylvania and a general scarcity of whales, the whaling industry began to decline. And so the locals turned to other industries, like hat factories, watch making, sugar, cotton and flour mills, pottery, and water works.
Today, Sag Harbor relies on tourism for a large part of its income. And luckily, there is plenty to do! Over the years, it’s attracted writers, artists, and rock stars, lured by its cool, grounded fishing-town heritage and authenticity.
A Conversation with Corporate Chef Ed Cotton
A work-study program had a 17-year-old Cotton in the kitchen at Todd English’s Olives. It wasn’t easy, but he says the experience was invaluable. “A lot of us in the Boston area came from a handful of really solid local chefs like Todd,” he explains. “It was tough love. You learned a lot.”
Before meeting Chef Tourondel and working for him at BLT Market, Cotton honed his skills in Las Vegas at Olives at the Bellagio, under Chef Barbara Lynch at No. 9 Park in Boston, and for Daniel Boulud at db Bistro Moderne and Restaurant Daniel in New York City.
Since 1999, Dino Tantawi of Vignaioli Selection has scoured Italy to bring his best wine finds to the American consumer. Tantawi’s approach to selecting wines reflects his own wine attitude, philosophy, and experience. He feels the history and background of vineyards and winemakers are essential to the character and regional depth of their wines. Found in each of Vignaioli’s wine selections is an interpretation of terroir, microclimates, and winemaker philosophies.
VIGNAIOLO (vee-n’yah-EEOH-loh): Italian for “vine-dresser,” someone who tends to the vines (pl. vignaioli)
Since 1999, Dino Tantawi of Vignaioli Selection has scoured Italy to bring his best wine finds to the American consumer. Tantawi’s approach to selecting wines reflects his own wine attitude, philosophy, and experience. He feels the history and background of vineyards and winemakers are essential to the character and regional depth of their wines. Found in each of Vignaioli’s wine selections is an interpretation of terroir, microclimates, and winemaker philosophies.
VIGNAIOLO (vee-n’yah-EEOH-loh): Italian for “vine-dresser,” someone who tends to the vines (pl. vignaioli)
Castello del Terriccio, Tassinaia IGT
The grapes of Tassinaia come from 37.5 acres of vineyards with sandy, gravel soil and a moderating maritime climate characterized by a long ripening season. Just about 100 meters above sea level, with a southwestern exposure, the grapes ripen in the sun and end up at about a 14 percent alcohol level.
The destemmed grapes are left on the skins for 24 hours and gently pressed to retain quintessential qualities. Tassinaia is vinified from only the best of the carefully selected grapes (equal parts Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon) and aged for 16 months in Tonneaux.
A heady blend of crushed black cherry, blackberry, and spice aromas precede plush blackcurrant, dark chocolate, and mint-laced fruit with mineral aspect and a sculpting acidity. Tannins are big, round, and soft before an extremely long finish. Pairs well with: Grilled and roasted meats, like beef and lamb, and firm cheeses.
Castello del Terriccio, Tassinaia IGT
The grapes of Tassinaia come from 37.5 acres of vineyards with sandy, gravel soil and a moderating maritime climate characterized by a long ripening season. Just about 100 meters above sea level, with a southwestern exposure, the grapes ripen in the sun and end up at about a 14 percent alcohol level.
The destemmed grapes are left on the skins for 24 hours and gently pressed to retain quintessential qualities. Tassinaia is vinified from only the best of the carefully selected grapes (equal parts Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon) and aged for 16 months in Tonneaux.
A heady blend of crushed black cherry, blackberry, and spice aromas precede plush blackcurrant, dark chocolate, and mint-laced fruit with mineral aspect and a sculpting acidity. Tannins are big, round, and soft before an extremely long finish. Pairs well with: Grilled and roasted meats, like beef and lamb, and firm cheeses.
Collemattoni Brunello di Montalcino, Fontelontano Riserva
The Fontelontano vineyard is situated at an altitude of 380 meters and a northern exposure between the hillside village of Sant’Angelo in Colle and the Collemattoni vineyard. The soil is made up of marl, limestone, and marble. The Riserva Fontelontano is 100 percent made from Sangiovese Grosso grapes in the best vintages.
Fermented for 20 to 25 days in stainless steel tanks and Slovenian oak casks with natural yeast. Maceration and malolactic fermentation take place over a period of 30 days. The wine is racked into Slovenian oak casks, where it ages for three years. Prior to bottling, the wine ages for one year in the bottle and has an alcohol content of 13.5 percent.
Cherry and plum flavors are singed by mushroom, tamari and wet earth notes in this broad-shouldered, burly red. There is sweetness at the core, necessary to balance the dense, dusty tannins. Aromas of tobacco, jammy fruits, and a long, velvety finish. Pairs well with: Steak, pheasant, and wild boar.
Collemattoni Brunello di Montalcino, Fontelontano Riserva
The Fontelontano vineyard is situated at an altitude of 380 meters and a northern exposure between the hillside village of Sant’Angelo in Colle and the Collemattoni vineyard. The soil is made up of marl, limestone, and marble. The Riserva Fontelontano is 100 percent made from Sangiovese Grosso grapes in the best vintages.
Fermented for 20 to 25 days in stainless steel tanks and Slovenian oak casks with natural yeast. Maceration and malolactic fermentation take place over a period of 30 days. The wine is racked into Slovenian oak casks, where it ages for three years. Prior to bottling, the wine ages for one year in the bottle and has an alcohol content of 13.5 percent.
Cherry and plum flavors are singed by mushroom, tamari and wet earth notes in this broad-shouldered, burly red. There is sweetness at the core, necessary to balance the dense, dusty tannins. Aromas of tobacco, jammy fruits, and a long, velvety finish. Pairs well with: Steak, pheasant, and wild boar.
Pianpolvere Soprano, Barolo Riserva
In 1998, Pianpolvere Soprano was purchased from Riccardo Fenecchio by Valentino Migliorini of Rocche dei Manzoni. The Pianpolvere Soprano vineyard in Monforte d’Alba lends its name to this bottle of biodynamically grown, 100 percent Nebbiolo. All vinification is biodynamic farming.
With a primary fermentation with polyphenolic and anthocyanin extraction in contact with the skins for about 21 days, the wine is aged in wood and then in cement. After bottling, further refining in bottle prior to market release. It has a 14.5 percent alcohol content.
This wine is considered the ultimate Barolo, big and rich with the perfect balance of fruit and acidity. An intense ruby red in color, it has a rich, broad, and persistent bouquet; complete and strong, harmonious, and very elegant. Smooth, sapid, and velvety. Pairs well with: Lamb and robust cheeses.
Pianpolvere Soprano, Barolo Riserva
In 1998, Pianpolvere Soprano was purchased from Riccardo Fenecchio by Valentino Migliorini of Rocche dei Manzoni. The Pianpolvere Soprano vineyard in Monforte d’Alba lends its name to this bottle of biodynamically grown, 100 percent Nebbiolo. All vinification is biodynamic farming.
With a primary fermentation with polyphenolic and anthocyanin extraction in contact with the skins for about 21 days, the wine is aged in wood and then in cement. After bottling, further refining in bottle prior to market release. It has a 14.5 percent alcohol content.
This wine is considered the ultimate Barolo, big and rich with the perfect balance of fruit and acidity. An intense ruby red in color, it has a rich, broad, and persistent bouquet; complete and strong, harmonious, and very elegant. Smooth, sapid, and velvety. Pairs well with: Lamb and robust cheeses.
Morigerati Fiano 2016
Grown at a high elevation of 600 meters above sea level, this white-wine grape hails from vineyards planted in 2009 right on the border of Campania and Basilicata, where the soil is rocky and schistic.
Nutty, floral, honeyed notes shine through as well as spice and tropical fruit flavors like pineapple.
This Mediterranean Fiano is round and warm on the palate and has a long finish. Pairs well with: Savory glazed light meats and fish.
Morigerati Fiano 2016
Grown at a high elevation of 600 meters above sea level, this white-wine grape hails from vineyards planted in 2009 right on the border of Campania and Basilicata, where the soil is rocky and schistic.
Nutty, floral, honeyed notes shine through as well as spice and tropical fruit flavors like pineapple.
This Mediterranean Fiano is round and warm on the palate and has a long finish. Pairs well with: Savory glazed light meats and fish.
Celebrating Local Ciders and Beers
On the heels of a successful inaugural Fruit and Grain party at Second late last year to celebrate New York State’s community of beer and cider producers, Laurent Tourondel Hospitality Beverage Director Percy Rodriguez has decided to make it an annual tasting event. Fruit and Grain kicks off the holiday party season on the Sunday after Thanksgiving weekend.
Attendees have the chance to taste a selection of offerings. Among last year’s many participants were Barrier Beer, Big Alice Brewing, Finback Brewery, Greenpoint Brewery, Gun Hill Brewing Company, Brewery Ommegang, SingleCut Beersmiths, Threes Brewing, Twin Fork Beer Company, Angry Orchard, Brooklyn Cider House, Descendant Brewing Company, and Wölffer Estate Vineyard.
“New breweries, cideries, and distilleries are popping up every day,” says Rodriguez. “In New York, Cuomo has made it easier with new legislation [the farm brewery license] that promotes New York production by incentivizing producers to use in-state ingredients. So the risk, even though still tremendous, isn’t as insurmountable. Couple that with a greater awareness of techniques and wide accessibility to DIY tools, and it’s no surprise we’re inundated with new products.”
A farm brewery license allows New York companies to make New York State–labeled beer as long as at least 60 percent of all its ingredients by weight, including hops and excluding water, is grown in state. In 2024, that percentage increases to 90 percent. It also allows the company to open up to five branch offices in addition to the primary licensed location.
On the heels of a successful inaugural Fruit and Grain party at Second late last year to celebrate New York State’s community of beer and cider producers, Laurent Tourondel Hospitality Beverage Director Percy Rodriguez has decided to make it an annual tasting event. Fruit and Grain kicks off the holiday party season on the Sunday after Thanksgiving weekend.
Attendees have the chance to taste a selection of offerings. Among last year’s many participants were Barrier Beer, Big Alice Brewing, Finback Brewery, Greenpoint Brewery, Gun Hill Brewing Company, Brewery Ommegang, SingleCut Beersmiths, Threes Brewing, Twin Fork Beer Company, Angry Orchard, Brooklyn Cider House, Descendant Brewing Company, and Wölffer Estate Vineyard.
“New breweries, cideries, and distilleries are popping up every day,” says Rodriguez. “In New York, Cuomo has made it easier with new legislation [the farm brewery license] that promotes New York production by incentivizing producers to use in-state ingredients. So the risk, even though still tremendous, isn’t as insurmountable. Couple that with a greater awareness of techniques and wide accessibility to DIY tools, and it’s no surprise we’re inundated with new products.”
A farm brewery license allows New York companies to make New York State–labeled beer as long as at least 60 percent of all its ingredients by weight, including hops and excluding water, is grown in state. In 2024, that percentage increases to 90 percent. It also allows the company to open up to five branch offices in addition to the primary licensed location.
Dalla Terra Winery Direct
From the Ground to L’Amico
Founded in 1990, Dalla Terra Winery Direct is a direct importer and national agent of a select group of leading, family-owned estate wineries in Italy. The name Dalla Terra means “of the earth” and represents a commitment to work alongside estates that are at the top echelon of quality in their respective regions or appellations. The wines they produce are authentic, indigenous, and characterful, while embracing progressive viticulture and winemaking.
You can find their wines at L’Amico, where Beverage Director Percy Rodriguez easily pairs them with Chef Tourondel’s varied menu.
Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico
Considered to be one of the most representative wines of the Chianti Classico appellation, this wine is the result of absolutely natural production methods using hand-picked organically grown Sangiovese and Canaiolo grapes. Pairs well with the skirt steak. coltibuono.com/en
Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico
Considered to be one of the most representative wines of the Chianti Classico appellation, this wine is the result of absolutely natural production methods using hand-picked organically grown Sangiovese and Canaiolo grapes. Pairs well with the skirt steak. coltibuono.com/en
A combination of three different vinifications married together to make one wine. Fresh and mineral, very rewarding. A killer combination with any of Chef Tourondel’s crudo. aloislageder.eu/wines/all-wines
A combination of three different vinifications married together to make one wine. Fresh and mineral, very rewarding. A killer combination with any of Chef Tourondel’s crudo. aloislageder.eu/wines/all-wines
Cocktails
1 oz Cynar
2 oz Aperol
3 oz cold-pressed watermelon juice
.25 oz simple syrup
Hard shake.
Top into a Collins glass filled with cubed ice.
Garnish with a fresh watermelon slice.
1 oz Lillet Blanc
1 oz house-made rhubarb shrub
.25 oz lemon
3 dash peyshauds
Hard shake.
Strain into Nick and Nora, atomized with absinthe.
Garnish with goldenrod.
.25 oz Campari
.5 oz Belvedere
.5 oz lemon
.75 oz honey water
.5 oz yogurt
Hard shake.
Strain into Collins.
Top with 2 oz prosecco.
1 oz Cynar
2 oz Aperol
3 oz cold-pressed watermelon juice
.25 oz simple syrup
Hard shake.
Top into a Collins glass filled with cubed ice.
Garnish with a fresh watermelon slice.
1 oz Lillet Blanc
1 oz house-made rhubarb shrub
.25 oz lemon
3 dash peyshauds
Hard shake.
Strain into Nick and Nora, atomized with absinthe.
Garnish with goldenrod.
.25 oz Campari
.5 oz Belvedere
.5 oz lemon
.75 oz honey water
.5 oz yogurt
Hard shake.
Strain into Collins.
Top with 2 oz prosecco.
Events
Drink Together
Davis Wittig and Tyler Drinkwater started 14|27 Wines in 2016 with the simple idea that Greek wine is delicious and more people should be drinking it.
Davis moved to Greece in 2015 and lived in Athens for three years. After falling in love with the native wines, he called Tyler—who was working as a buyer for a hospitality group in New York City—to see what the state of Greek wine was in the city. After the two dug a bit deeper into the industry, they found an opportunity to bring a product to market. Thus 14|27 was created.
The brand is explicitly non-Greek while remaining inherently and traditionally Greek. The name derives from the original social event in Greece, a symposium. Nowadays the word symposium conjures the idea of conference rooms and insurance brokers; however, it actually translates as “drink together.” The event in Ancient Greece was a gathering of friends and family to celebrate, discuss, eat, and, of course, drink. Through research, Davis discovered that according to archeological history and philosophical accounts, there was room for between 14 and 27 guests at these gatherings.
The wines themselves are crafted with the utmost care and attention to tradition and quality. Tyler and Davis partnered with a family-owned and-operated vineyard, planted more than 170 years ago. Working with the third- and fourth-generation stewards, Davis and Tyler are directly hands-on in the winemaking process.
All grapes for 14|27 are hand-harvested. The vines range from 20 years on the white (made from Amazia, a nearly unknown varietal) to 70 years old on the red (made from Xinomavro and Limnio). The rosé, however, is an intriguing selection that enchants as effectively as the Sirens.
Made from a specific clone of Xinomavro,with very low pigment density, these more than 40-year-old vines produce grapes that are perfect for dry rosé wine. The low pigment allows the wine to soak (skins and juice together) for an extended period, compared to typical rosé methods. This process allows for a fully characteristically developed rosé.
The nose entices with wild strawberry, rose petals, and, the hallmark of Xinomavro, heirloom tomato. Wonderfully dry, perfectly refreshing, it is surely the natural accompaniment to a perfectly prepared burger, or find it locally to pair with sharp cheeses, a watermelon and feta salad, or just by the pool.
However you decide to enjoy 14|27, make sure you keep in mind the symposium tradition — and drink together.
Publisher
Michael Goldman
Editor-in-Chief
Pamela Jouan
Design Director
Seton Rossini
Managing Editor
Christian Kappner
Assistant Editor
Stephane Henrion
Senior Copy Editor
kelly suzan waggoner
Contributing Writer
Pamela Jouan
P3 Burger Bash courtesy of The Betsy Hotel
All others courtesy of
Front of House Photography and LT Hospitality
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LT Burger
62 Main Street
Sag Harbor, NY 11963
ltburger.com
Sag Pizza
103 Main Street
Sag Harbor, NY 11963
laurent-tourondel.com
LT Bar & Grill
Esentai Tower
77/7 Al-Farabi Avenue
Almaty 050040 Kazakhstan
ritzcarlton.com
L’Amico and The Vine
849 Avenue of the Americas
New York, NY 10001
laurent-tourondel.com
Brasserie Ruhlmann
45 Rockefeller Plaza
New York, NY 10011
brasserieruhlmann.com
Brklyn Beer Garden
JFK Airport, Terminal 2
The Betsy
1440 Ocean Drive
Miami Beach, FL 33139
thebetsyhotel.com/dining
Laurent at Café Royal
68 Regent Street
London, W1B 4DY UK
hotelcaferoyal.com/laurent-at-cafe-royal
Thanks for reading our Summer 2019 issue!